So much is being made of the U.S.-Cuba raprochement and the arrival in Havana of cruise ships filled with tourists that I took a look at an old series of mine, part reportage and part travelogue, from 2002. I haven’t been back to Cuba since then. Fidel has retired from actively running the show. He’s also no longer 75. He’ll be 90 in August. But if much is said to have changed there, I’d be willing to bet that more has remained the same. For the flavor of the place, read on.