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Scott Timberg on Creative Destruction

Reservoir Restaurant in Silver Lake

May 4, 2009 by Scott Timberg


FIRST of all, let me say how pissed i am that LA Mill cafe and The Park in Echo Park are no longer BYOB. because they are applying for permits right now,  you can neither order a drink nor bring your own beer or wine in. the worst of both worlds!!

it’s for this reason that my wife and i ended up at RESERVOIR, a new place, natch, near the silver lake reservoir, across the street from club spaceland in the old netty’s space. 
the place only opened a few weeks ago, and may need to work some bugs out, but we were quite pleased with the place. its pedigree is similar to several other newish eastside places: seasonal, market-driven cuisine, and a chef who’d toiled in prestigious kitchens (lucques, AOC, blair’s) before finding the chance to open her own place.
the wildcard is the way the menu is structured: you pick your main, and then match it to one of several arrays of sidedishes. so sara got the scallops, which were seared with a bit of curry and fantastic, with tuscan kale and potatoes, while i got the short rib and paired it with farro with pine nuts. (this is trickier from the chef’s point of view that it looks, as all the mains have to match all the sides.)
we also had a beet salad with hazlenuts which was quite fine, and the service was friendly and warm and on time.
setting and sleek modernist design quite cool, tho for some to be sitting at netty’s (or looking out at the 7-11 nearby) and paying real restaurant prices will be dissonant. 
overall, i’d say it’s similar to canele’ in atwater village — another case of chick-chef from fancy place looking for her own place — tho at canele’ the emphasis is on simpler dishes and pure ingredients. 
the chef at reservoir is working hard to make every dish distinctive. my wife prefers it slightly to canele’; i know the atwater place better and my heart belongs to them.
my one caveat about reservoir is that the wine list was good but a bit pricey: every glass i was interested in was $12 or up. we paid the $15 corkage and dug into the domaine carneros pinot i’d happened to have on me, which was not perfect with anything but close enough with all of it.
Photo credit: Reservoir

Filed Under: food, Los Angeles, reservoir, silver lake, wine

Scott Timberg

I'm a longtime culture writer and editor based in Los Angeles; my book "CULTURE CRASH: The Killing of the Creative Class" came out in 2015. My stories have appeared in The New York Times, Salon and Los Angeles magazine, and I was an LA Times staff writer for six years. I'm also an enthusiastic if middling jazz and indie-rock guitarist. (Photo by Sara Scribner) Read More…

Culture Crash, the Book

My book came out in 2015, and won the National Arts & Entertainment Journalism Award. The New Yorker called it "a quietly radical rethinking of the very nature of art in modern life"

I urge you to buy it at your favorite independent bookstore or order it from Portland's Powell's.

Culture Crash

Here is some information on my book, which Yale University Press published in 2015. (Buy it from Powell's, here.) Some advance praise: With coolness and equanimity, Scott Timberg tells what in less-skilled hands could have been an overwrought horror story: the end of culture as we have known … [Read More...]

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